Not Antarctica Trip--February 16, 2011 

Not Antarctica Trip

We started on a trip with Overseas Adventure Travel to go to Antarctica.  Unfortunately, the ship we were to go on had mechanical problems and after waiting for repairs for a few days in Argentina, OAT flew us all back on a chartered airline to the States.  It was probably for the best because we found out afterwards that there was a big storm coming up in the Drake Passage!

Wednesday, February 16--We spent the day (except for my appointments at Cachet and physical therapy) getting ready for the trip. We both drove over to Starkville in separate cars before my appointments to take Frodo to the Scruggs Kennel. We decided to leave him there rather than the vet's because he will get more outings--supposedly. When I got home we finalized our packing and headed to Jackson to spend the night at the Sleep Inn and Suites,where we were able to leave the car, and to be close to the airport and avoid a mad rush in the morning.

Thursday, February 17--Tom reminded me as we awoke that it was my birthday. This trip should be a nice present! We had a nice continental breakfast and went to the airport in the shuttle at 8:00. It took only a few minutes to go through security--even though the metal in my body caused a pat down.

We now have lots of time to wait! Our plane was scheduled to leave at 10:25 am and was about on time. We stopped in Orlando to change planes and had time for lunch at Au Bon Pain. Tom had a chicken salad sandwich as usual. We watched a couple (she was in a wheelchair) who tried to eat at a table 

belonging to another fast food place get told to go elsewhere because they hadn't bought the food at that place. They moved over to Au Bon Pain and ate there. We reached Fort Lauderdale around 5:30, called our hotel for the

shuttle, and went directly to the hotel--Hyatt Place Airport North. We had sushi at Coco's for supper, and it was good.

Friday, February 18--We didn't need a wake-up call because our flight out of Miami wasn't scheduled to leave until 8:10 pm. We ate some breakfast at the hotel, and then walked over to the Diner we had noticed in the shopping area near the hotel and had a little more breakfast. I noticed a lox sandwich on the menu and took one for lunch later. We returned to the hotel and finished packing. When we went downstairs to get the shuttle, we found that the next one we could get was at 1:00 pm so we left our luggage, walked around for a little while, and then returned to wait at the hotel. The shuttle took us to the correct place at the airport to catch a "shared ride" to the Miami Airport. That ride was supposed to be $46, but all Tom had were $20's, and he didn't ask for change. Once at the airport, we checked our luggage and went right through security. We stopped at the food court, where I ate my lox sandwich --it did get a little smelly, but was still good--and Tom had a slice of pizza from a fresh pizza they had just taken out of the oven. We went to our gate at about 3:00 or 4:00 and waited. Before we left we met several other OAT travelers. We were told by a company representative who showed up at the airport that there were supposed to be 20-odd fellow travelers, but we only met about eight. We almost missed the plane and completely panicked because Tom misplaced his passport at the last minute. Luckily, after a frantic search, he found it just where he had initially thought he'd put it. The flight to Santiago was less difficult than I had thought it might be although we only slept an hour or so before a crying baby woke us up. After another very short time the flight attendants started serving breakfast so there was no more sleep.

Saturday, February 19--We landed in Santiago about 6:00 their time,but about 4:00 our time. We had to get off the plane and go through security again to get on the next plane. We had about an hour. As we left Santiago, we flew over the Andes to reach Buenos Aires. 

When we reached Buenos Aires, there was confusion about the time--whether it was 9:30 am or 10:30, but it was finally decided to be 10:30. After we went through customs, we were met by OAT representatives and taken to our hotel. There we were told to check in and take or carry ons to our rooms, but to return in 30 minutes for a brief orientation to our neighborhood around the hotel by Ani, our tour leader, after which we could rest until 4:00 (we slept) when we'd have about an hour's meeting.  Tom and I walked around the hotel and saw the Supreme Court building behind our hotel and the former OAT offices in the tower-like structure on the right.

             

Then we were free again until 7:30 (we took showers) when we met to go to the President's Club for supper. This was a beautiful older building with a luxurious inside.

Sunday, February 20--we had breakfast at the hotel and then met at 8:30 for the city tour. We had an excellent guide, and the tour lasted until after noon. One of the things we saw was a sculpture in one of the parks that was a flower with six petals representing 

                 

the six continents--Argentines (and maybe all South Americans?) consider that North and South America are one continent.

The night before it had rained hard and the water had not drained well from the park. Our guide seemed surprised by this as if it didnʼt usually happen.

To the left is one of the many statues in the city.

     

The tree shown here was the oldest in the city, and although it was enormous,  I think the guide said it was less than 200 years old. That is our group under the tree.

One of the most interesting parts of the tour to me was the cemetery where Eva Peron was buried.     

She apparently is still very popular with the Buenos Airians or “Portarians” (sp?)

The cemetery is like those in New Orleans except that the coffins are placed underground in the mausoleums--at least until they run out of room.

The picture to the left looks through the front grill to show a coffin on top of the ground, but the but the shot below that shows a couple of coffins below the grate on the floor within the mausoleum.

Click on grate for movie

                

Lorry, guide, Marvin in front of old mausoleums

Judy, Lucy, Marvin, and guide

             

Vendors were setting up as we left the cemetery.

We then went to the port area where there has been an attempt to make one side business and one side residential. There were supposedly many good restaurants there although we never had a chance to try them.     

The tower is a monument built by the British in 1910 to commemorate the centennial of Argentine declaration of independence from Spain.

The modern looking bridge is the Womanʼs Bridge.

Our next stop was in the Boca area. This is now the arty area and is historically where new immigrants live when they come to Buenos Aires. Many houses are still made of the cheapest materials--tin over frame often--and they are painted in many different colors supposedly because whatever paint was available was used.


The building with the three mannequins--their favorite soccer player, Eva Peron, and a well- known past tango singer--was across the street from the shop in which I bought my elephants made from the local rose stone (Rhodochrosite or Rose of the Incas)


We then went to the May Square (Plaza de Mayo), where the government buildings were. The building on the right is the house of the executive branch of the government house and is commonly called the Pink Palace.

The other side of life--below--is one of several shanty towns that we saw.  We were told that there were three levels of shanty towns--from those built of least durable materials to those of more durable materials.

After the tour we were dropped off with some others at the special Sunday flea market. The picture shows only a small part of the flea market.  

Judy Graham asked if she could walk with us. When Tom realized that I had company, he went back to the hotel.

I bought an ocarina from the man in the picture, who is playing one.

Judy and I waited over an hour for our lunch. I had ordered a salad with six ingredients and received three--carrots,broccoli, and mushrooms. They charged for two salads with six ingredients, but did quickly change the bill when we told them.

Click on the picture above for the video.

While we were waiting an interesting little band of drummers came by. After lunch we wandered around until about 4:00.  We passed a couple of Native Americans playing flutes very similar to mine. I was exhausted when we returned to the hotel. 

Click on the picture above for the video.

Everywhere we went the vendors told Judy to keep her backpack in the front. However, after we returned she found that her phone had disappeared! At 8:30 pm we met to go to dinner and a Tango show. It was good, but about an hour too long for most of us.

Monday, February 21--We met at 10:00 am for our Antarctic briefing, then put our suitcases outside our rooms for pickup by 11:15. At 11:45 we left for the airport, and about 1:45 took off for Ushuaia. I bought a sandwich at the airport and ate it on the plane but was then too full to eat the little snack we were served so I kept the snack for later. Our plane made one stop at a town called Calefonte (sp) where there is a large, very accessible glacier--which is growing-- although we didn't get a chance to see it. It took about an hour to refuel and load/unload passengers and then we were off to Ushuaia where we landed at about 7:30 pm. We checked into the Mil810 Hotel. Tom and I were on the main floor where there were only three rooms. The other rooms were below us since the hotel was built into a hill. All the rooms had a nice view. As soon as we were settled we went to Ani's favorite restaurant, Molly Lolo (sp). Tom had a very good tomato appetizer and trout, and I had king crab and mussels insert of a stew, which was also good. We didn't finish and get back to the hotel until almost midnight.

Tuesday, February 22--We had a tour to the national park here, Tierra del Fuego National Park, and hiked to a really nice overview. While at the “End of the Earth” I sent postcards to the grandchildren from the post office on the pier at the left. Chile was in the distance. Ushuaia is an island cut off from the mainland by the Magellan Strait. There are many islands here along the southern tip of South America, and the boundary between Chile and Argentina is confusing. While driving to and through the park we saw many loose horses and were told that the horses were allowed to roam free although they still belong to their owners.

Cora, Annette, John, Charlie, Phyllis, and Carol

A natural bonsai?

                                                             Woodpecker holes   

Mike and Jon    


     Facilities

                   

For lunch we stopped at a hotel and had empanadas, which were like small pasties but with flakier crust, and lamb cooked the way it is cooked here--strung up and cooked whole--and sausage. There was also an Argentine salad served buffet style. It included lettuce, carrots, onions, tomatoes with oil and vinegar available.

Lamb cooking and cooks                  


On the way back we had a short bus tour of Ushuaia where we were able to see Ushuaiaʼs glacier and the Clelia II (the smaller ship) across the water. The pointed mountain is Olympia and is supposed to be the mountain used by Paramount in its film logo.

             

The viewpoint across from Ushuaia

We ended the tour with a few minutes at the End of the World museum, which had a very interesting plaque. 

After that we were free to explore. Tom and I walked along main street where we bought a penguin with the local rose stone (Rhodochrosite or Rosa del Inca), a couple of mugs, and a map of the area.

At 4:30 we all met to go to the Celia II, where we were given our keys and found our luggage waiting for us. We are on the next to bottom deck and have three windows with twin beds. The beds have straps to keep us from falling! There was an introductory meeting at 5:45. At 7:30 dinner was served with free seating. We ate with Judy from Michigan and Carol and David from Texas. We all chose halibut as our main course and blueberry parfait for dessert. It was good without being too much food. 

After dinner, Tom and I walked around the ship some and took some pictures of the dock at night before returning to our room to wash out clothes and go to bed.

Marvin, Mike, and Bob

 

Wednesday, February 23--We woke up to find that we hadn't sailed and apparently weren't about to sail. They keep putting the departure off. We had a lifeboat drill that was simply a demonstration of donning our life preservers and instructions for what to do if the alarm went off.

John, Phyllis, Carol, Bob, and Jon

     

Bob and Cora

We did a little picture taking and I joined a group that was walking around the ship for awhile before going to listen to a lecture about birds. Unfortunately I was too sleepy to stay so I went back to the cabin where Tom was reading for a short nap before lunch.                                                                    

Ushuaia

They just announced a catamaran trip while we wait for the engine repairs, so apparently they aren't nearly finished. I went on the catamaran while Tom stayed behind to nap. We saw many birds, especially cormorants, and some sea lions.

Click on the image above to see the video.

 I had a glimpse of a porpoise and of several jelly fish. One of the jelly fish is in the picture here.

They extended our catamaran trip to 5:00, but the Clelia II still wasn't ready when we returned. Now they are saying at least 8:00 pm.

   Lighthouse and Antarctic Terns (I think!)

Thursday, February 24--This morning a trip to the old prison, which is now a museum, was arranged. We walked to it. The cell part was two stories all radiating

from a central core. The prisoners did a lot of work for the area--including building a rail line to what is now the national park in order to cut wood for construction.

I                           

Inside and outside of lighthouse at the prison

After lunch there was a bus trip into the Andes with a walk down an old road where there were lovely views. I went on the trip, but Tom didn't.          

Guardrail that would give insurance writers in the US fits!

Friday, February 25--At 11:30 we returned our boots--the definite sign that the trip was cancelled! Trevor Potts gave a talk about his attempt to copy some of Shackleton's voyage. After lunch we boarded busses to go to Haberton to see an old ranch settlement (station) and an island where penquins nest. There were many dead trees along the route. Some said that the dead trees were the result of flooding from beaver dams. There were also some natural bonsai!  

There was a museum at the station where're biologists were studying and collecting bones from various sea animals. We saw where they cleaned the bones and heard about their work. The sea lion and seal skeletons were particularly interesting as was the knowledge that one scratches with its front paws (I think sea lion) and one with it's hind paws. The beaked whale below is one of very few specimens displayed anywhere.

Click on the penguins to see the movie.

We rode in zodiacs out to see the penguins and I took many videos. As we left the main house of the station, where there was a small restaurant, we passed a nice garden       

We had a little bit of a storm on the bus ride back. Right before the storm we saw a strange formation of clouds/mist that Nick (group    

leader) described as the cold air from the water meeting the warm air from above. We arrived back for a late supper and bed.

Saturday, February 26--At breakfast we learned that we were leaving Ushauia tonight. The lecture was cancelled, and all the lecturers are being sent home with their contracts cancelled as of today. Since they had come for this trip and the next, they were

                     

not happy. The ship is being sailed very slowly to dry dock where they must cut a hole in the side to install a new generator. It won't be rescheduled for Antarctica! We'll be fed on the ship through supper and then bussed to the airport where we'll take a charter to Buenos Aires. There we'll stay until Monday night when they'll fly us to Miami. Once there, Tom and I will have to arrange with Southwest to get home. We went back out to walk around Ushuaia in the afternoon and a last cup of ice cream. The pictures show both directions on San Martin Street--the main street--and a view of the harbor.

 

I couldn't resist a lovely piece of the Rhodochrosite or Rose of the Incas rock at the corner store on the left displaying three penguins.

Some ships did manage to leave the harbor at Ushuaia!

            Beautiful and busy harbor!  

These are the boats that would have tried to rescue us if weʼd gone out with a bad generator.

Apparently this boat required work as well as money in return for transportation.


We left the ship at 8:15 and flew out at about 11:00 reaching Buenos Aires at about 2:30 am and getting to bed about 4:00. The sun was setting as we left and the views were outstanding.    

Sunday, February 27--We almost slept too late for breakfast, which lasted until 10:00, but did barely manage to make it. After breakfast we had until 1:00 to meet for a bus trip to the Tiger Delta area of Buenos Aires. This is an area north of town where there are many islands in the river delta and where people go for recreation. I had a delicious passion fruit and orange drink--recommended by Pedro (one of the group leaders) and really good--and bought a peach for lunch tomorrow.

 

A home on the left and a rowing club on the right

A carnival boat--we hadnʼt realized that we were in the middle of the carnival season with lent starting in about 10 days--and a boat being repaired.  

We returned to the hotel and had until 7:00 to leave for a farewell dinner. The farewell dinner was for all four groups and was at Capisco's restaurant. It was good with what seemed to be homemade ravioli.

Monday, February 28--Our last day! This evening we'll fly out--most of us for Miami, but some to start the post trip. We went to the LAN office at about 9:30 am to try to get boarding passes, but had no luck. Something about it being a group reservation. Tom left to go back to the hotel, but Judy and I stayed to hear that we didn't have to stay longer and the stopped at the opera house to get tickets for the guided tour. At 12:00 we went to a cafe right down the street from the hotel for a quick lunch and the to the opera house for our tour. The opera house has just been renovated and was very nice. It was built around the end of the nineteenth century when Argentina had a great deal of money.   The signs said not to take pictures in the opera house, but the guide told us that that was only because they didn’t want people to stop and slow the tours, so it was really all right to take pictures as long as we didn’t slow the group.

 

 

Tom was carrying his backpack at the NH Tango Hotel and ready to go. At 6:00 pm we boarded the busses for the airport. Once there we had to go through four lines before finally boarding--first the usual checking bags and getting boarding passes, security screening, customs, and finally having our carry-ons hand searched. LAN served a light supper at about midnight.

Tuesday, March 1--We were awakened at about 6:00 am for breakfast. We landed at 7:45 Buenos Aires time or 5:45 Miami time. We passed through customs with no problems. OAT had a representative to meet us, and she directed us to the shuttle. We went right to the Southwest counter where we were able to get tickets for the flight leaving at 1:10. We couldn't check or bags until 9:10, so we waited.

We had an uneventful flight to Jackson and were picked up by the Sleep Inn shuttle. We had decided to drive straight home so we reached home in time to see that Spring had begun while we were gone and to experience a beautiful sunset.

       

`© FRANCES COLEMAN 2015